Ocean Chapter 10

24 July 2022
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question
In the long term, what do beach drift and longshore current do?
answer
Move sediment parallel to shoreline
question
What is the longshore current?
answer
Water forced by waves to move along the shore
question
Which way would sediment move if NO beach drift existed?
answer
At an angle to shore
question
In general, what do beaches look like at the end of winter?
answer
Beaches tend to have a narrow berm and a prominent longshore bar.
question
How are winter beaches different from summer beaches?
answer
Winter waves are short and high, whereas summer waves are long and shallower.
question
In general, what do beaches look like at the end of summer?
answer
Beaches tend to have a wide berm and no longshore bar
question
How long does it take berms to become narrow and rocky after summer has passed?
answer
A few weeks
question
How would a beach be affected if a wide berm were protected from erosion during winter months?
answer
The wintertime beach would look similar to the summertime beach.
question
Why are coastal stabilization structures built along coastlines?
answer
-to protect coastal property from wave erosion -to stop beach sand erosion
question
In which direction does the longshore current move?
answer
Parallel to shore
question
Which of the following structures are types of coastal stabilization structures?
answer
jetties groins breakwaters
question
How do jetties protect harbor entrances?
answer
by inhibiting the deposition of sand in the harbor mouth
question
What would you do to both grow a large beach and protect a harbor mouth?
answer
Place two jetties on either side of the harbor mouth, and build a breakwater upcurrent from the harbor mouth.
question
Hard Stabilization
answer
structures built to protect a coast from erosion or to prevent the movement of sand along a beach
question
Groin
answer
built perpendicular to a coastline and are specifically designed to trap sand moving along the ocast in longshore transport -large blocks of rocky material (rip-rap)
question
Jetty
answer
built perpendicular to the shore and is usually constructed of rip-rap -usually built in closely spaced pairs and can be quite long, they can cause more pronounced upcoast depositon and downcoast erosion -protect harbor entrances from waves and only secondarily does it trap sand
question
Breakwater
answer
built parallel to a shoreline -harbor
question
Seawall
answer
one of the most destructive type -built parallel to shore -armors coastline and protects landward developments from ocean waves