Water moves in the same direction as wave movement.
question
How does wave amplitude change with depth in water?
answer
Wave amplitude decreases as depth increases.
question
What is the wave base?
answer
The lower limit of wave-induced motion in water.
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What is the relationship between wave base and wavelength?
answer
The depth of the wave base is one-half the wavelength of the waves.
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Why does wave height increase as waves enter shallow water?
answer
The energy of the wave must be contained within a smaller water column in shallow water.
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Why do ocean waves bend around headlands?
answer
The waves are moving more slowly just in front of the headland, causing the waves to bend.
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What is refraction?
answer
The bending of waves due to a change in wave velocity.
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How does wave refraction at headlands affect deposition and erosion?
answer
Wave refraction at the headland increases erosion at the headland deposition in adjacent bays.
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What is the crest of the wave?
answer
The highest part of the wave.
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What is the trough of a wave?
answer
The lowest part of the wave.
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What is the wave height?
answer
The distance between consecutive wave crests or troughs.
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What is the wavelength?
answer
The distance between consecutive wave crests or troughs.
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What is the wave period?
answer
The time it takes for one wavelength of a wave to pass a particular point/
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How are wave period and wavelength related?
answer
Waves with shorter periods have shorter wavelengths.
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Which of the following statements about wave period is most accurate?
answer
Wave period is the inverse of wave frequency.
question
Wave refraction is ____________.
answer
The bending of waves.
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What causes wave refraction?
answer
The part of the wave in shallow water slows down, causing the wave to bend and line up nearly parallel to the shore.
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Most of the year, and most of the time, the movement of a sediment and water along the California coast is from ___________.
answer
North to South.
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What is an interference pattern?
answer
The pattern produced when two or more waves interact.
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What results when two waves, in phase and with the same wavelength, interact?
answer
A wave with an amplitude that is the sum of the amplitudes of the initial waves.
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What does the term "in phase" refer to?
answer
Waves in phase have identical wavelengths and are aligned peak-to-peak and trough-to-trough.
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When will perfect consecutive interference occur for waves that are in phase and are moving in the same velocity?
answer
When waves with identical wavelengths interfere.
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When will perfect destruction interference occur?
answer
When two waves that are 180 degrees out-of phase interference.
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What occurs more often, pure destructive, pure constructive, or mixed?
answer
Mixed interference.
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Which of the following are names for large waves that can be created by interference?
answer
Rogue waves, Freak waves, Super waves.
question
Which is true about tsunamis?
answer
-The tsunami warning system uses seismic waves and deep-ocean pressure sensors to detect tsunamis.
-Tsunamis have very long wavelengths, so they travel at very high speed.
-At the coast, a tsunami looks like a suddenly occurring high or low tide.
-Tsunamis are undetectable by ships in the open ocean.
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How are tsunamis generated?
answer
Through displacement of the seafloor under water.
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What is a tsunami?
answer
A series of waves that travel away from a fault in all directions at high speed.
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Why do ships at sea not notice tsunamis?
answer
Tsunamis in deep water have small wave height and long wave length.
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Why does the wave height of a tsunami increase as the tsunami enters shallow water?
answer
In shallow water, the energy of the tsunami must be contained within a column.
question
What type of plate boundary are most associated with tsunamis?
answer
Convergent plate boundaries.
question
Which ocean is associated with most tsunamis?
answer
Pacific Ocean.
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Will Sumatra experience another tsunami like 2004?
answer
This is likely, because it is near many ocean trenches.
question
Ocean surface waves are:
answer
Orbital waves.
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Most ocean waves form as a result of:
answer
Wind's blowing across ocean's surface.
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Ripple like clouds in the sky are examples of _______ waves.
answer
Atmospheric.
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Tidal movement, turbidity currents, wind stress, passing ships at the surface create ________ waves.
answer
internal.
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Sound travels as __________ waves.
answer
Longitudinal.
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Waves at the ocean surface are __________ waves.
answer
Orbital.
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__________ waves also known as side-to-side waves.
answer
Transverse.
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__________ waves also know as push-pull waves.
answer
Longitudinal.
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Ocean waves in motion are classified as ___________ waves.
answer
Orbital.
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Which is true about ocean waves?
answer
-Classified by their depth of water in which they move.
-Described by their period, wavelength, and height.
-Ocean waves can be classified by the force that created them.
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The time between two successive waves is called the:
answer
Period.
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Wave speed is equal to:
answer
Wavelength divided by period.
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The circular motion of water molecules extends to a depth that is equal to:
answer
Wavelength/2.
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A deep-water wave occurs when the water depth is equal to at least:
answer
1/2 of the wavelength.
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The speed of a deep-water wave is proportional to:
answer
Wavelength.
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The speed of a shallow-water wave is proportional to:
answer
Water depth.
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The time it takes one full wave to pass a fixed position is called the ______.
answer
Wave period.
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The number of wave crests passing a fixed location per unit of time is called the _____.
answer
Wave frequency.
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The depth below the surface where the circular orbits become so small that movement is negligible is called the __________.
answer
Wave base.
question
What is the speed in meters per second of a deep water wave with a wavelength of 1.5 meters?
answer
1.53 MPS
question
What is the speed in mps of a deep-water wave with a wavelength of 5 meters?
answer
2.8 MPS
question
What is the speed in mps of a wavelength of 3.5 meters?
answer
2.34 MPS
question
Submarines sometimes ride out heavy storms in deep-water by submerging. That is a practical application of utilizing the _____________.
answer
Principle of decreasing orbital motion with depth.
question
Wave period
answer
-the inverse of wave frequency.
-the time it takes for one full wavelength to pass a given point.
question
The height of a wavelength depends upon:
answer
fetch, wind duration, and wind speed.
question
In general the restoring force for wind-generated waves is:
answer
Gravity.
question
The largest wind-generated waves tend to be associated with the:
answer
Westerlies.
question
Constructive interference results in larger waves whereas destructive interference produces:
answer
Smaller waves.
question
In the open ocean, 1 wave in ______ will be over twice the height of the wave average.
answer
23
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1 wave in ______ will be four times the height of the wave average.
answer
300,000
question
How many supertankers or containerships are reported missing each year without a trace?
answer
10
question
Rogue waves are created along the "Wild coast" off the southeast coast of _______.
answer
Africa.
question
"Whitecaps" form when ______.
answer
Wave steepness reaches a ratio of 1:7
question
What force is responsible for most ocean waves that eventually break on shore?
answer
Storm-generated winds that blow across the surface.
question
What triggers a wave traveling across the ocean to finally release its energy?
answer
The wave begins to interact with the seafloor as it moves into shallower water.
question
What causes the three different types of breakers?
answer
The steepness of the beach slope.
question
Which of the following best describes a plunging breaker?
answer
Forms on moderately sloped shorelines to create curling crests.
question
What type of breaker would pose the most danger to people playing or swimming in the surf zone?
answer
Surging breakers.
question
A wave will begin to break when:
answer
Steepness = 1:7
question
As a wave begins to feel the bottom near a shoreline, its wave height:
answer
Increases and its wavelength decreases.
question
Waves that are breaking along the shore and are forming curling crests over air pockets are called:
answer
Plunging breakers.
question
Waves converge on headlands due to:
answer
Wave refraction.
question
One that doesn't fit the pattern:
-Surf
-Swell
-Spilling breaker
-Surging breaker
-Plunging breaker
answer
Swell
question
Which type of breaker is a turbulent mass of air and water that runs down the front slope of the wave as it breaks?
answer
Spilling breaker.
question
Which type of breaker has a curling crest that moves over an air pocket?
answer
Plunging breaker.
question
Which type of breaker forms when the wave build up and breaks right a the shoreline?
answer
Surging breaker.
question
Which type of breaker forms waves that present the greatest challenge to body surfers?
answer
Surging breaker.
question
Refraction causes headlands to be areas of _______ surfing and sites of ________.
answer
good; erosion
question
As a wave approaches shore, its characteristics change by ______.
answer
Decreasing speed, increases steepness.
question
Which is likely to produce a spilling breaker?
answer
A gently sloping, sandy bottom or rocky bottom
question
The majority of tsunamis are caused by underwater __________.
answer
fault movement.
question
A tsunami is considered to be a __________.
answer
A shallow-water wave.
question
Which of the following is the least frequent cause of a tsunami in recent centuries?
answer
Meteorite impacts.
question
A vast majority of all large tsunamis are generated in the _______ Ocean.
answer
Pacific.
question
Which of the following caused the Indian Ocean tsunami of 2004?
answer
Fault movement.
question
Conditions for the development of wave energy are most optimal along ______ the shores in _______ Hemisphere.
answer
Western; Southern.
question
How many supertankers or containerships are reported missing each year without a trace?
answer
10
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