Earth Science Chapter 10

Which of the following is correct regarding a wave in the open ocean?

When waves reach shallow water they tend to be ________, which makes them become parallel to the shore.

When a wave is too steep to support itself, the wave front collapses creating a ________ that advances up the shoreline.

Waves begin to "feel bottom" when the depth of water is ________.

Longshore currents and beach drift ________.

Which of the following shoreline features is a result of erosion?

Daily changes in the elevation of the ocean surface are called ________.

One result of wave refraction is that wave energy is concentrated ________.

Waves approaching a beach at an oblique angle ________.

Fetch is ________.

One disadvantage of beach nourishment as compared to hard stabilization is ________.

Which of the following is an example of "hard stabilization" designed to prevent or retard shoreline erosion?

________ are huge circular-moving current systems that dominate the surface of the ocean within an ocean basin.

The center of each of Earth's five major gyres is found at about ________ latitude.

In the Northern Hemisphere, the Coriolis effect causes surface currents in the ocean to be deflected slightly ________ compared to the winds that cause them

The energy that drives surface ocean currents such as the Gulf Streamcomes from ________.

The daily tidal range is of the greatest magnitude during ________.

Large estuaries are more common on a(n) ________ coastline.

A ________ is an isolated remnant of bedrock standing above a wave-cut platform.

Upwelling, the rising of water from deeper layers of the ocean, is a windinduced movement that brings ________ water to the surface.

The vertical distance between trough and crest is called the ________.

The ________ is the only current that completely encircles the Earth.

Turbulent water created by breaking waves is known as ________.

Breakwaters, sea walls, and groins are all examples of ________.

As a deep-water wave enters shallow water, the part of the wave in the shallowest water slows down. The deeper-water portion of the wave crest keeps moving at a relatively rapid speed. This wave refraction causes the entire wave crest to progressively rotate toward being ________ with the shoreline.

Because deep-ocean circulation is driven largely by variations in water temperature and salinity, it is also called ________ circulation

________ are low-lying zones that are alternately covered by water during flood tide and exposed following ebb tide.

A(n) ________ is a place where fresh and salt water mix, such as a drowned river valley along a submergent coast.

If a spit grows as it is deposited and extends completely across the former mouth of an estuary, separating it from the open sea, it has become a ________.

The fog banks that occur in the Atacama Desert are formed from ________.

An increase in seawater density can be caused by ________.

An accumulation of sediment found along the landward margin of the ocean or lake is called a ________.

A ________ is a structure designed to protect boats from large breaking waves by creating a quiet-water zone near shore.

A ________ is characterized by a single high and low tide each tidal day.

A ________ is characterized by two high tides and two low tides each tidal day, with both the high and low tides having approximately the same height.

A ________ is characterized by a large inequality in high-water heights, low water heights, or both

Examine the figure. Of the three forms of hard stabilization illustrated here, which one is the groin?

Examine the map shown in the figure. If you were to go swimming in the ocean along this shoreline, which way would the longshore current carry you?

What type of feature is shown in the photograph below?

Surface ocean currents are caused by ___________, whereas deep currents are the result of __________.

Ekman transport is an average path of motion that, under ideal conditions, is at ________ to the wind's direction.

The California Current is a ________ current that flows ________.

The Gulf Stream is a ________ current that flows ________.

The Peru Current is a _______ current that flows _______.

A system of ocean currents that circulate around the periphery of an ocean basin due to the forces of surface winds, the sun's heat, the Coriolis effect, and gravity is called ____.

Coastal upwelling is most common in association with ____ in the Northern Hemisphere.

Earth's rotation influences currents by a "force" known as ____.

A low tide corresponds to the trough of the wave.

A tidal or lunar day is exactly 24 hours long.

In shallow water, the motion of water particles ____.

Most ocean waves are caused by ____________.

Which of the following is NOT a physical change that occurs as a wave reaches shallow water?

Of the following factors, all increase the amount of energy in waves except __________.

The reason that a lunar day is _______ a solar day is that _______.

A high tide is at 3:00 p.m. on a particular day. On the very next day, a high tide would most likely be expected at __________.

Of the following phases of the Moon, which one is associated with the smallest tidal range (neap tide)?

A tidal pattern with two nearly equal high tides and two nearly equal low tides per lunar day is called a ________ tidal pattern.

Water that is flowing out of a bay as a result of a change in the tides is called _________.

The difference between high water (high tide) and low water (low tide) is the ____.

The side of Earth facing the moon will experience a high tide, while the opposite side of Earth will have a ____.

Which body has the greatest influence on ocean tides?

A long, shallow body of seawater isolated from the ocean, that lies between the shoreline and a barrier island is called a ____.

A long-term effect of wave refraction is ____.

A(n) ____ is a bridge of sediment that connects a sea island to the mainland.

A sand spit forms when ____.

The natural progression of shore features on erosional coasts is:

The energy that drives the longshore currents is derived from ____.

Which feature is typically found along Pacific-type active margins?

During periods of very heavy wave activity, _________.

The place where the ocean meets land is usually called the ____.