# Waves

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Where do ocean waves get their energy? How is it transferred?
Ocean waves get their energy from wind blowing across the surface of the water. When the wind contacts the water, some of its energy is transferred.
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When does a wave cut cliff form and is it from erosion or deposition?
wave-cut cliff and it forms when waves erode the base of the land along the coast and the rock above collapses
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Why do hurricanes produce such large waves?
During a hurricane, the wind blows very fast. This transfers more energy to the water and results in large waves.
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When does a spit form and is it from erosion or deposition?
D is a spit. It forms when longshore drift carries sediment down the beach and deposits the sediment at an obstacle.
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When does a beach form and is it from erosion or deposition?
C is a beach. It forms by deposition, when waves drop the sediment they carry on the shore.
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Describe the effect of waves on the headland and predict how it will change over time.
As waves approach the shore they bend toward it and crash into it and will over time erode the headland and even out the shoreline. As the headland erodes it may create sea arches or caves, and the sea arch can erode and collaspe which will leave a sea stack there.
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Identify two forces through which ocean waves cause erosion.
Abrasion and impact
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How does an ocean wave change as it moves from deep water to shallow water?
In deep water, only the water near the surface is affected by the wave. The wave causes the particles of water to move up and down as the wave passes, but they do not actually move forward. As the wave reaches the shallow water near the shore, the wave affects the water all the way to the bottom. As the wave drags along the bottom, the friction between the wave and the bottom slows the waves down and the water begins to move forward with the wave.
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How does a sea stack form and is it from deposition or erosion?
A is a sea stack. It forms when waves erode a sea arch and the arch collapses.
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How does a barrier beach form and is it from deposition or erosion?
E is a barrier beach. It forms by deposition, when sand carried by incoming storm waves piles up parallel to the shore and above sea level.
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As waves repeatedly hit a beach, some of the beach sediment moves down the beach with the current, in a process called ______. a. longshore drift b. beach spreading
A. longshore drift
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Headlands are formed through wave deposition. T or F
False
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A spit is formed through wave deposition. True or False?
True
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The energy that produces ocean waves comes from a. the rise and fall of the tides. b. rivers flowing into the ocean. c. wind blowing across the water's surface. d. rock falling into the ocean along the shore.
C. wind blowing across the water's surface
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Where a coastline turns and interrupts longshore drift, sand may be deposited in a fingerlike landform called a a. spit. b. barrier beach. c. sandbar. d. headland.
A. spit
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Ocean waves contain energy that is transferred to them by ______ moving across the surface. a. wind b. sunlight
A. wind
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what is formed through longshore drift
spit
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Waves cause erosion through the processes of ______ and abrasion. a. chemical weathering b. impact
B. impact
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what is a piece of land that juts out into the sea
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As the energy of a wave moves through the water, what happens to the water particles themselves? a. They are carried away. b. They sink to the bottom. c. They move up and down, but do not move forward. d. They slowly move backward.
C. they move up and down but don't move forward.
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Fiords are formed through wave erosion. True or False