OCE Chapter 8

25 July 2022
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disturbing force
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the energy that causes ocean waves to form
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atmospheric waves
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movement of different air masses along an air-air interface
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ratio of wave height to wavelength at which waves break
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steepness = 1:7
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diameter of orbital wave at the surface
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wave height
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deep-water wave speed (S)
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wavelength/period
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An internal wave might form:
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at a density boundary within the ocean.
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What is the wavelength?
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the DISTANCE BETWEEN consecutive wave crests or troughs
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What is the wave period?
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the TIME it takes for one wavelength of a wave to PASS A PARTICULAR POINT
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How are wave period and wavelength related?
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Waves with shorter periods have shorter wavelengths.
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Which of the following statements about wave period is most accurate?
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Wave period is the inverse of wave frequency.
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What is an interference pattern?
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The wave pattern produced when two or more waves interact.
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What results when two waves, in phase and with the same wavelength, interact?
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A wave with an amplitude that is the SUM of the amplitudes of the initial two waves.
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What does the term "in phase" refer to?
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Waves in phase have IDENTICAL WAVELENGTHS and are aligned PEAK-TO-PEAK and TROUGH-TO-TROUGH
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What occurs more often, pure destructive, pure constructive, or mixed interference?
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Mixed interference
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Which of the following are names for large ocean waves that can be created by constructive interference?
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-Freak waves -Superwaves -Rogue waves
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Submarines sometimes ride out heavy storms in deep water by submerging. That is a practical application of utilizing the ____________________.
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principle of decreasing orbital motion with depth
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Waves at the ocean surface are called orbital or interface waves.
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True
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Destructive wave interference results in ___________.
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reduced wave height
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The ratio of wave height to wavelength is called the:
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wave steepness.
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Wave speed is equal to:
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wavelength divided by period.
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The diameter of a wave orbital at the surface is equal to:
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wave height.
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The speed of a deep-water wave is proportional to:
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wave speed or celerity.
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Examine the five words and/or phrases and determine the relationship among the majority of words/phrases. Choose the one option that does not fit the pattern. A. crest B. height C. length D. period E. trough
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D, period
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The horizontal distance between two successive troughs is called the wave height.
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False
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A shallow-water wave must form in water depth less than 100 meters.
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False
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Deep-water waves move faster than shallow water waves because they are not slowed by friction with the ocean bottom.
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True
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How does water move as waves pass?
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Water moves in a CIRCLE in the SAME DIRECTION as wave movement.
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How does wave amplitude change with depth in water?
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Wave amplitude DECREASES as depth INCREASES
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What is the wave base?
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the lower limit of wave-induced motion in the water
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What is the relationship between wave base and wavelength?
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The depth of the wave base is ONE-HALF the wavelength of the waves.
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Why does wave height increase as waves enter shallow water?
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The energy of the wave must be contained within a smaller water column in shallow water.
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Why do ocean waves bend around headlands?
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The waves are moving more slowly just in front of the headland, causing the waves to bend.
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What is refraction?
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the bending of waves due to a change in wave velocity
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Reflection
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the bouncing of waves
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Refraction
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the bending of waves.
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The height of a wave depends upon:
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fetch, wind duration, and wind speed.
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The largest wind-generated waves tend to be associated with the:
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westerlies
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Constructive interference results in larger waves whereas destructive interference produces:
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smaller waves.
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A wave train is caused by wave energy moving more slowly than individual waves.
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True
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Rogue waves are generated by destructive interference patterns of ocean swells.
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False
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How are tsunamis generated?
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through displacement of the seafloor under water
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What is a tsunami?
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a series of water waves that travel AWAY from a fault in all directions at HIGH SPEED
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Why do ships at sea tend not to notice tsunamis?
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Tsunamis in deep water have small wave height and long wavelength.
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What type of plate boundary are most tsunamis associated with?
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convergent plate boundaries
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Which ocean is associated with most tsunamis?
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Pacific Ocean
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As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height:
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increases and its wavelength decreases
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Waves that are breaking along the shore and are forming a curling crest over an air pocket are called:
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plunging breakers.
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Waves converge on headlands due to:
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wave refraction.
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Standing waves may be caused by:
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wave reflection.
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Examine the five words and/or phrases and determine the relationship among the majority of words/phrases. Choose the one option that does not fit the pattern. A. plunging breaker B. spilling breaker C. surf D. surging breaker E. swell
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E, swell
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A curling wave formed over an air pocket is called a plunging breaker.
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True
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A standing wave can be caused by wave reflection.
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True
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A tsunami is considered to be a:
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shallow water wave.
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Tsunamis travel as deep-water waves over the open ocean.
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False
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The Pacific Tsunami Warning Center (PTWC) was established in 1946 to coordinate data from seismic waves in the Pacific Ocean and around the Pacific rim to issue tsunami warnings to 25 Pacific rim nations when data suggest a tsunami is imminent.
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True