Nail disorder - Horizontal wavy ridges caused by uneven growth due to illness or injuries.
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Furrows
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Nail disorder - vertical lines down the nail plate caused by nutrition, injury or illness.
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Leuconchia
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White spots on the nail caused by injury to the base of the nail
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Onychorrhexis
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Split or brittle nails caused by injury, careless filing, vitamin deficiencies, illness, and frequent exposure to strong chemicals.
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Hang Nails
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Caused by dry cuticle and carlessness in removing the cuticle
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Onychomycosis Unguium
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Nail fungus caused by a parasite. very contagious
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Onychocryptosis
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Ingrown nail caused by filing the nail too much, or tight fitting shoes.
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Verruca
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Warts caused by infectious virus
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Onycholysis
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lifting of the nail without shedding
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5 Basic Nail Shapes
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squoval, round, oval, pointed, square
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Toner
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used on pre-lightened hair to achieve pale and delicate colors after decoloring
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Conditioning filler
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protein conditioner that will equalize porosity and fill the holes
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Color filler
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used to replace the missing primary colors
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Oxidative
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Demi- permenant and permenant color
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Non-oxidative color
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temporary - physical change only. Semi-permanent.
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Double process blonde
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decolorizing and toning
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What affects lightener working time?
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Melanin - the more there is the longer the process. Scalp processes faster because of body heat
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Lift
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lightening by breaking up the melanin to decolorize hair
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Deposit
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means that product only deposits color because it does not contain ammonia or high alkalinity necessary to lift
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developer
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oxidizing agent H2O2 when mixed with ammonia it will break up the melanin and give ability to lift or lighten
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Semi-permanent color
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non-oxidative, temporary color, stains cuticle, fades in each shampoo.
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Demi-permanent color
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oxidative, deposit only, deepens or changes the tone
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Permanent color
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lightens and deposits at the same time. more alkaline ingredients, penetrates the cortex, can't shampoo out
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Primary colors
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Red, Blue, Yellow
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Brown
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unequal combo of primary color
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Black
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Equal parts of primary colors
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Warm tones
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red, orange, yellow
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Cool tones
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blue, green, violet
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Neutral tones
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perfect combo of both cool and warm tones
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Eumelanin
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Brown to black pigments
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Pheomelanin
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Red to yellow pigments
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Coarse texture
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largest diameter, greatest amount of melanin, processing time and lift is affected
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medium texture
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has a balance of melanin, typically no problems
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Fine texture
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smallest diameter, least amount of melanin, more susceptible to darker drabber results, more prone to damage
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Alkaline Wave
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AKA cold waves - ammonium thioglycolate (thio and ammonia). ph - 9.0-9.6, no tension, solution causes hair to swell, processes at RT
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Acid Wave
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AKA heat waves- glycerol monothioglycolate. ph - 7.8-8.2. will require heat to speed processing
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Endothermic
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required added heat source
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Exothermic
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self heating
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Croguiqnole
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Wrapping technique from ends to scalp, causes tighter curls on ends. also referred to as "overlapping method"
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Spiral
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hair is not perpendicular to rod - spiraled from top-bottom of rod
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On base placement
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hair is held 45* forward
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1/2 off base placement
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hair is held 90* straight up
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Off base placement
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hair is held 45* down
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End paper techniques
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double flat, bookend, cushion wrap
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Lanthionization
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hydroxide relaxer removes 1 of the sulfer atoms converting from a disulfide bond converting it into a lanthionine bond, which is only 1 sulfur atom. can never be reformed
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Sodium relaxers are not compatible with :
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Thio relaxers
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Elasticity
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ability to stretch and return to original length without breaking. wet - 50%, dry - 20%
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Melanin
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color pigment. eumelanin, and pheomelanin
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Hair layers
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medulla, cuticle, and cortex
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Medulla
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center core of hair, does nothing
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Cuticle
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7-14 scale like layers, outer layer of hair
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Cortex
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has hair pigment (melanin), 90% of hair weight, elasticity, strength, all chemical changes
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Skin Layers
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Epidermis, Dermis, Subcutaneous tissue
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Epidermis
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Outer layer of skin, protective/water proof, contains keratin and fats, stratum germinativum
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Stratum Germinativum
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basal cell layer of epidermis that produces melanin that protects from uv rays
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Dermis
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"True skin" sensitive layer of connective tissue, 25x thicker than the epidermis, 70% of layer is made of collagen protein, elastin, and blood vessels