Chapter 9 Hair Cutting

25 July 2022
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Form
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1. Having the three dimensions of length, width, and depth. Also referred to as a solid. 2. The organization, placement, or relationship of basic elements, as volumes or voids in a sculpture, so as to produce a coherent image.
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hair shape
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round oval and texture is influenced heavily by genes.
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Points
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Dot or mark when extended
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Lines
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series of connected points
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angles
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formed at the point where two lines join together or intersect
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Natural fall
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Describes the hair as the lengths lay or fall naturally over the curve of the head
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Normal projection
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The hair is viewed abstractly as if it were sticking straight out from the various curves of the head; this view allows the stylist to analyze the structure or length arrangement of the hair
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texture
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diameter and feel of the hair and the hair's surface appearance
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solid form
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one length cut, bob. 0 degree angle
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graduated form
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wedge; 45 degree angle cut
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increase layered form
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shag or 180 degree angle cut
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uniformly layered form
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layered cut for 90 degree angle cut
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combination form
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two or more forms in any combination
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square form
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box cut; uniform at center top to increase layered at front and crown; graduated and uniform sides and back
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shear/parts
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create a clean blunt edge. (moving blade, tension screw, finger grip, finger brace, shank, thumb grip, and still blade)
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taper shear
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one straight blade and one serrated blade. produce a distinct and regular alternation of shorter and longer lengths.
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razor
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creates tapering or an angle effect on the end of each strand, which produces a softer, somewhat diffused form line.
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clipper
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used to create clean, precise lines or a soft, broom-like effect.
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combs
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distribute and control the hair before and sometimes while cutting. hold the comb between your thumb and index finger of the same hand.
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cutting position
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the position you choose will depend on the area of the head on which you are working. Palm down (solid length forms) Palm up (cutting along diagonal lines) Palm to Palm(hair is held away from head, palm of cutting hand faces palm of other hand) On top of fingers( when lifting the lengths on top of the head, cut the hair along the top of your fingers)
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types of taper shears
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Taper 8(best choice when a lightly tapered effect is desired) Taper 16(remove a medium amount of hair within a parting) Taper 32(best for maximum hair removal and highly textured effects)
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head positions
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upright, forward, or tilted to either side
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distribution
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direction is the direction the hair is combed in relation to the parting
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projection
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known as elevation, the angle at which the hair is held in relation to the curve of the head prior to and while cutting.
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Finger positions
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parallel and nonparallel. Parallel(fingers are positioned at and equal distance away from the parting) nonparallel(fingers are positioned unequally away from the parting)
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design line
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artistic guideline used while cutting
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texturizing
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sometimes referred to as thinning, involves cutting shorter lengths within the form to reduce bulk and create support, closeness, fullness, mobility and visual texture in the haircut without shortening the length or removing weight. Base, MIdstrand, end, razor etching, slithering, and razor rotation.
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fringe and nape
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fringe is the hair that partially or completely covers the forehead in a hairstyle. the nape is the hair that covers the area at the back of the neck
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growth patterns
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Widows peak, cowlick, whorl
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widows peak
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a prominent hair growth pattern that forms from a point at the front hairlinr and curves to one side
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cowlick
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a tuft of hair that grows in a different direction from the rest of the hair and usually will not lie flat
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whorl
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Hair that forms in a circular pattern, as on the crown
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taper 8 shears
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which of the following shears removes a minimal amount of hair within a parting
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taper 16 shears
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1/16 in apart. remove a medium amount of hair
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taper 32 shears
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teeth spaced 1/32 in apart. maximum hair removal
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areas of the head
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parietal, interior, exterior, front, back, sides, nape, crown, occipital, apex, fringe, and parietal
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perpendicular distribution
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The hair is combed at a 90-degree angle from its parting. Can be used from any line and is primarily used to cut graduated and layered forms.
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palm down
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shear position used with the palm of the sculpting hand downward; commonly used for sculpting sold form lengths.
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palm up
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shear position used with the palm of the sculpting hand upward; commonly used when sculpting along diagonal lines
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palm to palm
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This hand position is used when the palms of both hands are facing each other while cutting
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on top of the fingers
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lifting the lengths on top of the head, you will need to cut the hair along the top of your fingers
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natural distribution
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the direction the hair assumes as it falls naturally from the head due to gravity